Here at Cowell's quality of plants is our number one priority and this
prime objective has enabled us to build a fine reputation from both customers and suppliers alike."
Whatever aspect of gardening you're interested in, you're certain to find it here at Cowell's. Our indoor and outdoor plant collection includes varieties from all over the world. Whether it's for the rockery, to climb over a trellis, or even for the pond, Cowell's have plants to suit every garden or patio. Give your home the tropical touch with an Orchid, cactus or lemon tree, or add style to your back yard with a beautiful Topiary or specimen plant.
Cowell's Two Year Plant Guarantee
"Cowell's Garden Centre guarantee the free replacement or credit of any container-grown hardy plant which dies, providing it has received good care, bears the garden centre label and is presented for examination, with proof of purchase, within two years."
We of course cannot be held accountable for plants that die due to unseasonal weather conditions.
Meet the Staff
Martin Cowell Plantarea Manager
Shrubs, Bamboo's & Grasses Specialist
"I have gained a National Diploma In Garden Centre Sales and Organisation / Horticulture and have worked within the family business all my life. I am always available to listen to any of your problems or comments
regarding the services we provide here at Cowell's Garden Centre."
"I have City & Guilds Level I, II & III in Horticulture and over 16 years experience working within a garden centre. I would be delighted to help you with any of your plant or gardening queries."
At
Cowell's we hold a vast array of popular and unusual varieties of
shrubs, which are all relatively easy to grow.
Many types of shrubs can provide ideal screening for walls & fences
and some varieties can bring colour into the garden all year round.
We also stock and can recommend varieties which will thrive in
not only sunny but shady positions not to mention the type of garden
as well as the soil types they require.
Within
our tree department we stock a vast selection of trees from fruit
bearing to specimen, in-fact everything a well-landscaped garden would
compliment, not to mention numerous attractively compact trees ideally
suited to smaller gardens.
There
are many handsome varieties of Acer. Some are large, specimen trees;
others are smaller and suitable for the less well-proportioned garden,
or even containers.
Acers are notable for their shape, form and autumn colour. They
can boast colours ranging from the popular Acer Palmatum Atropurpureum,
with its purple foliage, and the yellow-leaved Sangu Kaku, to the
multi-coloured Acer Saccharum 'grandidentatum', whose leaves turn
red, orange and yellow in early autumn.
Acer Negundo has variegated leaves that are green and white with
a tinge of pink. Other Acers have attractive bark or fruit, for
example, Acer Griseum (The Paper Bark Maple) has, as its name suggests,
beautiful peeling bark in cinnamon brown, revealing orange beneath.
Most Acers are fully hardy, with a few that require winter protection.
Soil can be either neutral or ericaceous, in full sun, or partial
shade. Windy sites should be avoided for the most part. When choosing
a tree, consider its position, eventual height, and surrounding
colours. Ideal sites include raised borders, pond edges, rockeries
and borders of ornamental grasses, not forgetting of course Japanese
themes.
The
family name of conifer includes plants from all the corners of the
globe, ranging from frozen wasteland to tropical rainforest.
Coniferous plants are amongst the oldest living groups of plant on
the planet, and can fill a vast array of sites from ground cover,
from a gorgeous selection of Junipers (with a scent reminiscent of
gin!), to hedging, Leyland's Cypress being particularly popular, to
specimens in their own right, such as the Nootka Cypress (Chamaecyparis
Nootkatensis 'Pendula').
Forms take in prostrate, columnular, and contorted shapes. Many
are suitable for topiary, and still others have a naturally topiaric
form, from Juniperus Chinensis, with its conical shape, to Cham.
Lawsoniana Minima Glauca, which forms a natural orb.
The longest lived of all life, Taxus, or Yew is another popular
and well-known conifer; a plant that really can live forever! Cryptomeria
Cristata is a beautifully contorted dwarf Japanese cedar, whose
foliage takes on a lovely bronze in hard winters.
Most conifers are not fussy about siting, however a deep, humus
rich soil will give the best results, most prefer full sun or partial
shade, and not all can tolerate strong winds.
Tiny
alpine plants, mostly native to high altitudes, require very little
room to grow. A small alpine trough can be fitted into virtually any
garden or yard (of course, an alpine does not need to be restricted
to a trough, and could be incorporated into a much larger scheme,
or entire garden, depending on how much of an enthusiast you may be).
A sunny airy site is preferred, and most alpines can resist winds.
The soil must be very free draining, and on the acid side. There
are available alpines who can be planted with no special preparation,
including Alyssum, Bugle, and Aubretia.
At Cowell's, we carry an extensive range of alpines, along with
troughs (some lightweight), grit, gravel and compost ideal for the
novice or expert alike. Planters can be made to order.
There
is no better way to achieve height in a garden than with climbers,
and no easier way to disguise sheds or fences. Climbers can be bought
at anytime of year and provide dense, colourful foliage, flowers and
fruit.
Most climbers use tendrils, curling leaf stalks, or aerial roots
to cling, but many other plants can be trained to climb a wall by
tying in, for example: Roses, Cotoneaster, Berberis and Pyracantha.
Climbers for acid soils include Wisteria and Ivy, for sandy soil,
choose a rampant Honeysuckle such as Lonicera Japonica, or Jasminum
Officinale. Clematis are particularly suited to chalky, alkaline
soils, and come in a staggering range of form and colour. For vigour
choose C. Alpina or Montana, for giant blooms, Dr. Ruppel or Barbara
Jackman.
In the vegetable garden, beans and peas can be trained up frames
or wig-wams, and also cucumbers or melons (although you may find
this difficult in the North East). Fruit trees may also be trained
against a wall, fence or frame, in fan, espalier or cordon form.
Herbs
are one of the oldest cultivated types of plant, with many reaching
our shores during Roman times. They range in use from ornamental and
culinary to medicinal and beyond, including Nepeta, or catmint (which
cats really can't leave alone).
Being largely Mediterranean in origin, most prefer well-drained
soil in full sun. In form they can vary from shrub (Bay), to short
lived annuals (basil), and can often be planted in the border, especially
if they have attractive flowers (Lavender).
Smaller growing herbs look fantastic when planted in a hanging
basket or trough. Particularly suitable herbs would be Thyme and
Oregano, or any low-growing plant.
Camellias
are elegant shrubs and small trees requiring humus rich, acidic soil.
They grow best in sheltered conditions, such as a woodland garden.
The flowers are single, paired or borne in trusses. Some are delicately
fragrant. Size ranges from miniature (6cm) to very large (13cm across).
They make excellent specimen plants, in pots or the border, although
not all are frost hardy. Popular for their bold foliage and abundance
of showy white, pink, red or yellow flowers, they are suitable for
cutting or exhibition.
Frost hardy Camellia include Black Lace (double black-red flowers),
Dream girl (semi-double salmon pink), and Cornish Snow (miniature
white flowers). With their thick, waxy leaves, Camellias add an
exotic touch to any sheltered garden.
Roses
are widely admired for the beauty of their blooms; the tempting choice
of colour is endless and opens the door for limitless imagination.
The blended colours begin with cool tones of pastel and delicate shades
of blush, passing through a wonderful range flushed and growing with
tints and finished with a lively selection of strong, hot colours.
Hybrids Tea's are perhaps the most popular of all. They have a
long flowering period from early summer until the first frosts of
autumn. Amongst our personal favourites are 'Alpine Sunset' which
forms a neat and compact bush of creamy-yellow blushed with pink.
The flowers are very large and the fragrance is outstanding.
Others include 'Silver Anniversary' for which the flowers are
both pure white and fragrant. 'Warm Wishes' is another rose we would
recommend a prolific flowering rose, coral pink in colour, it has
large blooms that stand up well to wind and rain and it is also
highly scented.
Floribundas produce whole sprays of blooms per stem; many with
blooms comparable in size to hybrid tea's. Floribundas are also
a dramatic sight in flower with some varieties flowering almost
continuously. It's difficult to better a good floribunda in any
situation requiring a mass of roses in-groups.
Climbing roses make an enormous contribution to the character
of any garden with a scent of perfume released from top to bottom.
One climbing rose worth mentioning is 'Penny Lane' which is the
only climbing rose to be given the coveted Rose of The Year Award.
Blooms of charm and beauty, enjoyably scented in warm weather and
honey-champagne flowers blush to pearly white in late season.
Patio and ground cover roses are popular for tubs and containers
and with regular feeding and de-heading will flourish throughout
the summer. A one to watch out for is another edition to the flower
carpet family, the new 'Flower Carpet Twilight', soft pink in colour
that flowers continuously. It has superb disease resistance. It
can either be grown in containers, hanging baskets, or in a mass
planting scheme.
No other woody plants can match shrub roses for summer colour
fragrance, these roses make imposing bushes repeatedly cover themselves
in large, fragrant blooms. Planting a shrub rose is sure to add
a touch of magic to your garden. Another popular rose named after
the popular much-loved gardener is Rosa 'Geoff Hamilton', which
has large double soft pick blooms coupled with a strong perfume
and good disease resistance makes it a rose for any garden enthusiast.
We have a huge range of roses at Cowell's, and we could not of
course name or talk about them all, but we've mentioned some of
our favourites. If there is a rose you want, we are sure we'll have
it stock, but if not we will obviously do our utmost to meet your
requirements.
Click
here for the Rose of the Year 2003 - 'Rhapsody in Blue'.
Bamboos
are members of the grass family (Graminae) and occur naturally in
Asia and both South and North America. They have been grown and used
in the Far East for centuries, becoming an important part of those
countries' economy.
Sadly, they have been neglected as a garden plant in the western
world possibly because of the many myths which surround them; they
are not hardy, they are invasive, they are boring. All of these
Cowell's can prove to be untrue.
Whilst most are tall growing thicket forming plants ideal for
screening, windbreaks and softening the head corners of buildings,
others are low growing, very useful for the front of the border
or for adding a touch of eastern promise.
Planting:
The growth of bamboos is governed by the quality of its root system.
In the early years the stems are short, but as the rootstock increases
in strength it produces larger culms. The shorter culms produced
in the early years will remain but can be removed during pruning
in late winter before new shoots appear. To give their best, bamboos
are best planted in good well drained soil, to which a little well
rotted manure or compost has been added to retain moisture.
Fertiliser should be applied during the spring. Do not feed after
June to allow the culms to harden up in readiness for the winter.
Postion:
Bamboos are hardy evergreens, and will withstand quite severe
weather conditions. In common with most of the other plants that
retain their leaves through the winter months they are best protected
from cold winds, which dry out the leaves giving the plant a tired
and scraggy look. If this occurs do not worry as the plant will
soon recover during the following season.
After Care:
Once planted keep weeds away from the base for the first few years
and remove any weak or dead material by cutting to the ground in
the early spring. The removal of any lower branches will allow extra
light to reach the base and encourage early shooting and straight
elegant culms.
Bamboos are not affected by any major pest or disease which is
another reason why you should try growing these fascinating, ancient
plants in your garden.
Choice Bamboo's
DWARF BAMBOOS: NEVER REACHING
MORE THAN 1.5M (3FT)
Pleioblastus viridistriatus (0.3 to
1.5m)
This dwarf bamboo is highly appreciated for its luminous gold and
green variegated leaves; they are slightly pubescent, with a velvety
appearance. Best in early summer. Cannot stand strong sun. Ideal
in the border, clump, undergrowth, pot or jardinière.
SMALL-SIZED BAMBOOS: RANGING
FROM 1.5 TO 3M (10FT)
Fargesia murielae (2 to 3m)
It grows in thick clusters; the culms are very close and a thin
foliage placed at the top falls in cascade. Exceptionally resistant
to low temperatures, it is best out of full sun and is ideal in
an isolated clump or jardinière.
GIANT BAMBOOS: 9M HIGH AND ABOVE
Phyllostachys nigra 'Boryana' (16
to 18m)
This giant bamboo is remarkable for its fine and streaming foliage,
but most of all for its spotted culms. This hardy giant bamboo is
very easy to grow. Ideal in an isolated clump or grove.
COLLECTORS' BAMBOOS: FOR THE
BAMBOO CONNOISSEUR
Hibanobambusa tranquillans (3 to 5m
/ 10-16ft)
A result from hybridising a Sasa and a Phyllostachys. It has the
large Sasa leave and the smooth, streaked stalks of the Phyllostachys.
It is particularly resistant to frost and drought. Ideal for a single
cluster, hedge or jardinière.
The
code of practice for poisonous and irritant plants has been introduced
to inform gardeners of the hazards associated with a small number
of the plants available in Garden Centres. Some of the plants can
pose a significant health risk, such as Laburnums and Foxgloves. All
however only cause a problem when parts of the plant are eaten, if
there is excessive handling, or the gardener is particularly allergic.
Most of the hazardous plants in this country are found in our
hedgerows, not in our back gardens. However we are not about to
start destroying hedgerows because of this.
Follow these simple precautions and there will be no need for
concern when handling poisonous plants.
Talk to children about the hazards involved in eating and playing
with plants.
Wear gardening gloves and wash hands after working in the garden.
Do not position plants such as Rue near garden paths where people
might brush up against them.
Take extra care when pruning in full sun, as this often aggravates
allergic reactions.
Poisonous plant list
Plant
Poisonous
Irritant
Aconitum (Monkshood)
-
all parts (P)
Aucuba japonica
-
all parts
Chrysanthemum
-
leaves
Colchicum
-
all parts (P)
Convallaria
majalis (Lily of the Valley)
-
all parts (P)
Daphne mezereum
-
all parts (P)s
Dicentra spectabilis
(Bleeding Heart)
-
all parts (P)
Dieffenbachia
-
all parts (P)
Digitalis (Foxglove)
-
all parts (P)
Euonymus europaeus
-
all parts (P)
Euphorbia
all parts
sap
Fraxinus excelsior
(Ash)
all parts
sap
Galanthus nivalis
(Snowdrop)
-
all parts
Hedera helix
(Ivy)
-
all parts
Hellebores
-
all parts
Hyacinth
all parts
bulb
Ilex aquifolium
(Holly)
-
berry
Ipomoea purpurea
(Morning Glory)
-
seed
Laburnum
-
all parts (P)
Lantana
-
all parts (P)
Lathyrus (Sweet
Pea)
-
seed
Ligustrum (Privet)
all parts
leaves
Narcissus (Daffodil)
all parts
sap
Nerium oleander
-
all parts (P)
Papaver somniferum
(Opium Poppy)
-
all parts (P)
Primula obconica
-
leaves
Prunus laurocerasus
and lusitanica
-
all parts
Rheum (Rubarb)
-
leaves
Ricinus communis
(Castor Oil Plant)
-
all parts (P)
Ruta graveolens
(Rue)
-
leaves
Scindapsus
aureus (Devil's Ivy)
-
leaves
Solanum capsicastrum
(Winter Cherry)
-
all parts
Plants marked with (P) are likely to cause serious harm if eaten.
For those plants that are not marked with (P), an appreciable amount
must be consumed before any serious poisoning takes place.
Shade
can be cast by buildings or dividing partitions, such as walls or
fences, or by trees and shrubs, which usually means additional growth
restrictions such as dry soil around tree roots and lack of air movement
caused by overhanging branches.
To grow healthy plants in shady areas, it is important to identify
the degree of shade that a plant needs or will tolerate. Few shrubs
will thrive where shade is very dense, particularly when coupled
with a dry soil. The adding of organic matter and a general fertiliser
will provide more suitable conditions for plants to grow.
Definitions:
Light Shade
A site that is open to the sky, but blocked from direct sunlight
by an obstacle, such as a high wall or group of trees.
Partial Shade
A site which receives sunlight for two or three hours either
in early morning or late evening. Midday sun supplies considerably
more light.
Moderate Shade
Light which is reflected or diffused i.e. through tree canopies.
Deep Shade
Usually under dense deciduous trees, e.g. beech, conifer hedges
or overgrown shrubberies.
Key:
E = Evergreen
A = Requires acid soil
SE = Semi-evergreen
D = Tolerates dry conditions
W = Tolerates or prefers moist conditions.
Within
our 'Plants for the home' department we stock everything from the
common foliage and flowering houseplants to the more exotic cacti,
orchids and citrus, in-fact a plant for every taste and room whether
it be the Kitchen, Conservatory or dining room.
With every plant purchased we provide helpful knowledgeable assistance
in selection and a care leaflet to help you nurture your chosen
plant and keep it looking as good as the day you purchased it.